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[Weekly thread] GNU+Linux help: ask anything!

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  • I've recently made it to Act 3 in Baldur's Gate 3, and my integrated graphics on my laptop aren't keeping up, so now I have installed it on my desktop machine and am using Steam Remote Play (my desktop is plugged into the TV, it's not a proper desktop setup).

    Often, the Steam connection drops out and the game keeps playing on the desktop but I can't connect back to it from the laptop.

    Any suggestions on what I could do to either stop losing the connection or let me connect back to it after it drops?

    Set up:

    • Laptop has Nobara Gnome spin
    • Desktop has Mint Cinnamon
    • Bought BG3 on GOG, installed through Heroic Launcher, added to Steam as non-steam game to play it.
    • Are you trying to do this over ethernet or WiFi?

      If you're trying to use wifi that connection needs to be stellar for this to work well. No over-lapping channels with the neighbours and not too many clients.

      If you're experiencing this on a wired connection, look into if your gear supports jumbo frames and confirm it's a gigabit link.

      Try using Vulkan mode for BG3.

      • Laptop is on WiFi, desktop is on ethernet.

        Laptop is directly next to an access point that is connected via ethernet, though I know the network is not super stable. I often have to restart the ISP router after it drops out.

        I am confused why Steam doesn't let me reconnect though. Normally if the game is running you can open Steam and choose to connect to it. But I don't get this option, it's like it's forgotten that it started the game.

        In Steam it's set to use Proton and I select the bg3.exe or whatever it's called, not the bg3_dx11.exe. Is this using Vulcan mode?

        • Are you able to connect everything involved via ethernet?

          Wi-Fi can be unreliable for many reasons so being near it isn't going to change the thought much.

          A quick google suggests to me that it's Vulkan if you are running it that way but I can't confirm.

          What may be happening is that when the connection is unstable it may not be well designed enough to handle the dropped connection gracefully to let you reconnect.

          • I'm running a Framework laptop and don't have the LAN expansion card as it wasn't release at the time I got my laptop. I can order one, but they also don't sell Frameworks in my country so it's a long freight forwarding process 🙁.

            I've been considering a new gateway (rather than the ISP router) to see if that helps stabilise the network. Maybe that will be helpful until I can get a proper LAN connection.

            • If I recall correctly the framework laptops have a bunch of USBC ports?

              If so you could just get a USBC dongle for it.

              In the meantime we can evaluate the quality of your WiFi. If you have an android phone, I find this app works fairly well for visualizing the network.

              https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

              Additionally, If you have a dual band router I would suggest disabling the 2.4Ghz band unless you have any legacy devices that use it.

              Check that your network isn't overlapping with any other networks.

              • Yes framework expansion card slots are just a bunch of USBC ports, but seems a waste not to get the proper expansion card that slots nicely into the laptop looking like it was built in instead of a boring regular dongle.

                I checked out the app you suggested, not entirely sure what I'm doing but the app seems happy with my wifi. My network is strong, others from neighbours are all pretty weak.

                Unfortunately I need 2.4Ghz wifi for a bunch of home automation things.

                • Do you see any overlap on yours in the graph view?

                  • Some, at much lower strengths. Most of the graph is covered though, and the access point is using the recommended channel. It has band steering so automatically changes the channel to optimise.

                    • So there's a few issues at play.

                      That automatic channel changing feature is more harmful than helpful in this context.

                      If you're able to lock it onto an entirely empty channel it'll help. Try for channel 106

                      • I have the ISP router and two AmpliFi mesh access points to provide the wifi. The ISP router also has a wifi network, this is the 2.4Ghz one for the IoT devices.

                        When I try to change the channel for the access points, I don't get the option for channel 106. I only get the option for 36, 40, 44, 48, 149, 153, 157, 161.

                        I also noticed that I had missed that there's a little button in the wifi scanning app to toggle between 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz. I noticed if I change the channel, a whole bunch of hidden networks come with it. I think this must be related to the mesh network, it's a lot of networks though! 8 or 9 of them, two separate ones with the same network name (I presume the two access points), and the rest all marked as hidden.

                        In the app, what does the width of the bar represent? It says something like Wifi_Network 157 (155) and has a big flat top that seems to cover a range. Is that indicating that nearby channels can interfere with each other?

    • Oh, tough one. I don't know what's that protocol. But I guess it's not tied to WiFi. So, How about getting a cheap ethernet switch? That's how I connect devices in my living room to the router given by ISP that's on the other side of the wall.

      • The laptop is connected via WiFi (to an access point directly next to me), I don't have a LAN port for it at the moment.

        The desktop is connected via ethernet.

        Normally Steam will let you reconnect to a game that's already playing, but I don't seem to have that option. It's like it forgets it's running.

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