To get things going here and also because I'm interested in what kind of fun stuff you're running on your phones, I'll post a list of apps that I'm using daily or that are part of my Android experience.
To start it all off, I'd like to emphasize that I try to run FOSS apps almost exclusively and I also don't use Google Play Services whatsoever (not even MicroG). I do run some very few closed source applications in a separate profile with Insular, but I plain out refuse to run them if they flat out require Google Play Services.
Feel free to tell me what YOU are running in the comments!
My installed Apps
AdAway | Blocks ads by utilizing root access or by acting as a local VPN**
Aegis | Provides 2-factor authentication codes, includes a repository of icons for your services
Aurora Services | Required for background installations with Aurora Store****
Infinity for Reddit | Feature-rich Reddit client (future uncertain due to Reddit's API-pocalypse, however, you can compile Infinity with your own API, as described here)
Insular | Creates a separate (work) profile where you can install "big brother" apps**
Noice | Create and play back profiles of overlapping noises to drown out environmental noises (use version 1.3.3, version 2.x requires internet access and an optional subscription)
SlimSocial for Facebook | Wrapper for Facebook's website, so you can interact with people that refuse to use any kind of messenger, but are still present on Facebook
SuperFreezZ | Freeze applications that you're not using***
Open Camera | Feature rich camera with Camera API v2 support, usually the best FOSS camera on 3rd party ROMs
*CAN be used as a client for self-hosted services
**Offers additional features if root access is present
***Requires root access to be present
****Part of a Magisk module
Edit: Added some links and changed Infinity's description
Lots of great recommendations and I got a few ideas from here.
I came here to mention AFWall+, which blocks apps' internet connection with iptables for that additional layer of security.