Pretty good rundown, to which I will add the following regarding progressives:
To minimize the distortion around the central intermediate zone, choose frames with small lenses that position the lenses as close to your eyes as possible. The closer they are, the larger the clear center zone will appear.
Don't cheap out on the material and get the latest computer-controlled ground lenses, particularly if it's your first pair of progressives. If your optician offers an "interview" to personalize the position of the distance/near zones, use it. It seems like a gimmick but it really does help personalize the progressives to your activities.Progressives are difficult to get used to and it doesn't take much to make them unsuitable and difficult to live with. So stack the odds in your favor to make them work for you, even if it's more costly. If you can't get used to them, the entire cost of your new pair of glassess will be money down the drain and you don't want that.
8 minutes well spent if you want a primer on ophthalmic lens materials.
Incidentally, the Abbe number is why I always wear glasses with small lenses positioned very close to the eyes: chromatic aberration affects smaller lenses less. The shape and size of the lenses in the frames you choose is something to consider when you determine the kind of material you want the lenses made out of with your optician.
The video does mention that glasses made for children in the US are almost always made of polycarbonate to avoid litigation in case of a lens shattering during a child's activities. This is specific to the US: polycarbonate is almost never considered in any other country because it is a material with really poor optical properties.
If you're in the US, I urge you to resist fitting your child with polycarbonate lenses: a child's vision is still developing and it really deserves better. CR-39 is a minimum. Or if you have a bit more disposable, I personally recommend Trivex: it's impa
I got a new prescription ~10mo ago, and my eye fatigue has slowly gotten almost debilitating over that timeframe. I feel almost instant relief when I remove my glasses, aside from the fact that I then can't see.
I have an appt on Saturday, to hopefully figure out what's going on
You can probably barely tell, but yes I had to solder that spot in the center of the photo (right nose piece), on glasses made in 1988.
I had to do a little mild bending, which already scared me, to take the lenses about a millimeter away from my nose bridge, to stop from rubbing against my eyebrows.
The right nose piece started to weaken and almost broke off, so I cleaned that with a Dremel and soldered it to reinforce it.
Sorry the photo angle is a bit dim, but it came out solid and clean đź‘Ť
Same frames, same prescription. The only difference is, one pair of glasses has lenses made of CR-39 and the other has lenses made of Trivex. Quite a weight difference!
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I ordered a set of prescription lenses made of Trivex and mounted them this morning. Those things are light, that ain't no joke! The video shows the weight difference with the same lenses mounted in the same frames but made of regular CR-39 ordered from a no-name supplier (the Trivex lenses came from Hoya).
I've worn the Trivex lenses for a whole day and the weight saving does make a difference in comfort. If you're into ultralight glasses, I highly recommend Trivex lenses. They aren't the cheapest lenses but I find them well worth the premium.
Now, if only I could get those glasses into single-digit grams territory... I'm so close 🙂
Luxottica: the illusion of choice and what you're really getting when you spend hundreds of dollars on glasses.
This documentary was broadcast 13 years ago. Since then, Luxottica, the monopolistic Italian frames manufacturer, merged with Essilor, the largest ophthalmic lens manufacturer in the world. Today, EssilorLuxottica vertically controls 80% of the eyewear industry.
Here are more recent documentaries about EssilorLuxottica:
Ignore the die, that's just to tilt the glasses up to more easily see the nose bridge. The rigup totally works, except that over time sweat degrades the heatshrink and it starts to swell. When the rigup was fresh, it was so streamlined that it almost looked factory made, but alas heatshrink doesn't like sweat and body oils.
The exact model is apparently M•Flex ME507. The frames would otherwise be really nice, if it wasn't for the fact that this is the second same set of frames I've had break in exactly the same way.
Eyeglass frame materials include zyl, monel, flexon, stainless steel, titanium, wood, silver and aluminum; learn which is right for you.
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This is a pretty good summary of traditional glasses frame materials, to which I will add the following unconventional materials used in 3D-printed frames, that I have personally tried to wear quite extensively:
PLA: lightweight, cheap, forgiving, ubiquitous, reasonably solid and durable, VERY easy to form - and deform - under moderate heat. Don't leave PLA frames on the dash of your car in the summer or you'll come back to a gooey mess. You can easily chemically-polish PLA smooth with acetone to make PLA frames very comfortable to wear on your skin for extended periods of time. PLA is a bioplastic made from plant material and is biodegradable, so it's a good choice if you're environmentally-minded. PLA has very low toxicity and is regarded as food-safe.
PETG: a variant of PET - think frames made of the same plastic soda bottles are made of. Slightly stronger than PLA