What's a good alternative to Gmail?

Trying to de-google and looking for an alternative to Gmail.

Don't mind if it's a paid service if it's robust.

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I just use IMAP through my domain hosted on Dreamhost (had it for about 13 years now??) and then use K9 and Thunderbird to read it.

Don't need to deal with all the hosting my own mail server spam and ISP nightmare :)
- I'm on DH too but I find their webmail solution very outdated, especially compared against Gmail. Especially searching for old mails is bad.

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