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There's a new map style on OpenStreetMap.org! The Tracestrack Topo map from @tracestrack.
It's a mix of osm-carto and OpenTopoMap. It has many improvements: more tag support (busway, embankment, cuisine, solar plants, aquaculture, pitch, sea, tree etc.), CJK fonts, etc. There is ...
Some poeple on Hacker News have the same problem. They found out the grey map is related to some privacy features when a tracking referal is not send to the Tile Server. Must be manually fixed e.g. in uMatrix