I work in the plastics industry. TiO2 is definitely our pigment of choice for white colorant
"I'm vegan! I don't need to shower! I don't produce mucus or smell because of my superior diet. Brb I'm gonna go wash my feet in the toilet!" -Steve Jobs
From Tesla's owners manual, referenced in the article:
Immediately remove corrosive substances (such as grease, oil, tree resin, dead insects....
I find it really funny that the folks at Tesla consider grease to be "corrosive".
Random thought but why do the provided links never work in Memmy? They don't redirect.
Ram trucks also are the #1 vehicle for DUIs in the US.
I tried looking it up based on the current moon positions but couldn't find an answer. My best guess is it's a shadow of one of the four Galilean moons but I'm not sure which one
This was my very first attempt at planetary imaging with my SCT6. I've been doing EAA work for a few years now, but mostly DSOs through the use of a Hyperstar. Last night I removed the Hyperstar from the rig and made my first attempts at imaging at the native 1500mm focal length.
This was a 5 minute video processed with lucky sampling.
So there's no way for Linux cups drivers to run these printers. Another reason to pass on them!
I know you asked this 3 months ago, but just wanted to give my two cents:
I ran 5/3/1 for 6 years. I started at 27 and stopped it when I was 33. I saw huge gains with it and it was fun for a while. But it wasn't sustainable. Jim Wendler explicitly markets this program as one you can do forever. My experience completely contradicts this and your success with this program entirely depends on your age and quality of recovery. I would never recommend his program if you're not in your prime.
After the spike in gains over the first two years, the constant push for PRs absolutely burned me out and left me bored. And then I ended up getting seriously hurt in a number of different ways. My body just couldn't take it anymore. I had to get shoulder surgery. Then I had to PT my knees. Then finally I fucked up my back in a way that won't ever fully recover.
I spent a year going barely 1x/WK because I was so tired of the program and the intensity constantly aggravated old injuries. I finally got 100% back to the gym regularly, but I did so by throwing that 5/3/1 book away.
I just want to look good naked. The old school thinking was that hypertrophy was hugely dependent on lifting low volume, heavy weight. More recent studies contradict this and show that high volume lower weight can have the same effect. So that's what I've chosen to do, my program focuses on this, I'm getting good gains in mass and I'm finally not leaving the gym in pain anymore.
I guess what I'm saying is, use 5/3/1 and all variants at your own risk. It might be perfect for you depending on your goals & age, but consider a different approach to lifting if you want this to be a hobby you'll enjoy for many years to come.
That sucks. The controller that came with my Xbox S randomly developed stick drift so bad it was trashed. I got maybe 10 hours of use out of it.
I bought a third party controller with digital stick encoders to prevent the problem because Microsoft refuses to fix their controller design.
Oh well guess I'm disabling console updates now
I imagine these are elements that are so short-lived they decay into known daughter particles in fractions of a second
I made a post previously on having rot behind a soffit and many of you gave me great advice on how to proceed in fixing it the right way.
This weekend I worked nonstop and got most of everything fixed. I removed part of soffit and cut the rafter tail to expose the area and quickly identified the problem - no kickout flashing !
I cut out the rot on the sheathing and patched in plywood. ! I ripped the siding off all the way up to the roof to expose all the step flashing - this involved removing both the vinyl siding and the original composite siding. Working from the bottom upwards, I laid down new house wrap. I fabricated a nice piece of kick flashing to go on the end of the run.
Then I installed a nice piece of counter flashing over the step flash, then finally another layer of house wrap partially overlapping the cFlash. !
I then installed pressure treated furring strips ! for the vinyl siding and reinstalled the siding. Here's the siding going over my kickout flashing. !
With that done I repaired the rafter tail and replaced all the rotten fascia board, then reinstalled the soffit vents.
Now I'm in the process of installing drip edge before the gutter goes back. Due to poor roof installation, the underlayment doesn't extend down far enough to overlap my drip edge, so I'm having to cut 2.5" wide tarpaper strips and splice them in underneath the existing underlayment edge. That way the drip edge will be covered.
You were correct. It was indeed an improperly done piece of kick flashing at the very bottom near the gutter
No diverter is present there at all. There's a bunch of things going on here that could be causing this problem and I think it would be best to address all of them at once:
- No diverter
- No drip edge present along gutter, and I've seen water drip from soffit vents. It's possible water is coming into the damaged area from where the soffit meets the wall
- Vinyl siding was installed over original wood composite. It's questionable whether the step flashing is effective given the setup
- Gutter potentially too small - I have to clean it out like 6 times a year even with gutter guards over most of it
Good point on the rafter tail. I'll look in the attic in that area to confirm.
Yeah there's flashing above there and it's possible this is the source of the leak.
I'm afraid what I'm going to have to do is take all the siding off above here to expose the flashing and inspect it and repair. Then to remove and fix the rot I'm gonna have to take everything apart to get into that area behind the soffit - remove the gutter, fascia, etc to gain proper access
Hey folks, looking for some advice because I don't know how to proceed.
This house came with vinyl siding and I noticed rot under it. The rot terminates up high behind where this soffit meets with the exterior wall. I need to get in here to figure out how water is getting in and then make necessary repairs, but the soffit is really in the way.
I've already removed the rot lower down - I had to remove vinyl siding, a layer of foam board, a layer of rotten OSB, the original rotten siding, and the original rotten sheathing. All of those layers are still present behind this soffit.
When I take the soffit vent off, there's a layer of OSB directly above it. Really don't know how to gain access here.
Any ideas?
I noticed that too and I dumped Chrome for FF on every machine I use as soon as I read about this
Why not? Is this not an appropriate place to park?
This is an industrial winding / reeling machine. Used for reeling up product made using a continuous extrusion process. 30,000ft of product fit on a single reel. 
It's the blue machine on the right with the 8020 clear guards on it
The chain sprocket here is supposed to rotate the keyed shaft below. At some point the 1/4" sq key came out. Instead of replacing the key, someone decided to try to just tighten the tiny set screw in the sprocket until it bottomed out on the keyway floor. It didn't end well and the keyway got trashed. !
I cleaned up the keyway and installed a new key. !
Then I milled a 1/4" slot into one half of a split shaft collar, and installed the collar over the part of the exposed key where the keyway in the shaft was damaged. Finally I installed a regular split shaft collar to butt against the end of the new key to keep it from backing out again. Final pic !
Oh for sure. Definitely not disagreeing with that