Good point! I've been considering to print a TPU "sock" of some kind to put on top of a FDM/SLA printed keycap to mimic a silicone (or silicone-like) keycaps, just to see what it feels like. Maybe it's better to make a mold to try other materials too!
Oooh very interesting insights. I'll try to print a palm rest with your advice!
Ah that's true. I got the SLA printer's build volume and indeed it can't fit a whole half of the split kb in any way.
I think this SLA printer can print ABS. Or at least I'm told the default resin is ABS-like. Probably not as durable I'm guessing.
Nice idea! Do you mean on top of the switch plate? I'm still brainstorming the design, but it will have a removable layer on top of the plate to hide the switches' legs (I don't like that "naked" feel) & keep some dust from falling inside the kb.
Hmm what's the rationale to print the plate with FDM? Are SLA plates brittle or inflexible? (if printed with ABS)? I don't have much experience with SLA. And good point, I'll check Thingiverse for the thickness.
Thanks for the input. I'll definitely spray paint the SLA parts. Not sure if spray painted keycaps will feel more "slippery" but I'll test first with some of them.
Good point with the TPU. I'm not sure what's available, but probably Ninjaflex (so 85A?)
Hi All,
I'm planning to print a plate & case for a handwired 46-key split kb. I have access to both SLA & FDM printers at a fab lab, so wondering which printer tech would be best to print various parts such as keycaps, plate, case etc. Function's more important than looks for me.
I'm allowed to use PLA or TPU for the FDM, and the default resin (ABS-like?) for SLA.
I'm thinking:
- Keycaps: SLA (I want really thin keycaps)
- Plate: ?? (not sure what's better for a thin & durable plate that allows a bit of flex when typing)
- Case: FDM (Due to costs, and easy to embed screws & magnets)
- Wrist rest (if any): FDM? Would TPU wrist rest be clean or comfortable?
- Gaskets, extra layers (if any): FDM (cuz TPU)
What do you think?
Thank you! I considered the coin cell idea for a while, but the battery capacity looks a bit too small. Still, it has low footprint & is so easy to find :D
Nice job! Yeah, all is sorted out... for now xD There's a chance something might come loose but at least I can access my tools back home soon-ish! Meanwhile, thinking how best to prevent this issue for my next build...
Haha legit point! I definitely need one for as long as I still have to travel with my current kb, just in case more things break. I just learned of the Pinecil the other day, and it looks like the perfect candidate for a portable mini soldering iron.
Yeah wireless charging would be really useful. It's what I have planned for my next kb build. This could allow for smaller battery capacities to be used as well, since it's easy to charge and reposition the kb halves while in use.
Sorry, just updated my post for more clarity. Essentially, I found a temporary workaround (replaced that failed battery), and I'm considering a permanent solution for my next build/upgrade, which is to somehow power the board at 3.7 V with common batteries (AA, AAA or rechargeable AA/AAA-sized LiPos), or a power bank.
Oooh! I don't know KiCAD either, but this is an interesting option to study. Thanks!
Sorry, just edited my post for more clarity. Adding a JST connector would certainly help, but the problem is I might not be able to find a replacement battery with the same JST connector while travelling in an unfamiliar country or region.
True, I've been seeing mostly 18650s and only a handful of 14500s in the hobbyist shops where I travelled (South-East Asia). The latter was not crazy rare, still, so it's a good candidate.
Ooh that was an interesting approach. Glad you got it to work. In my case, I just replaced the failed battery with a new, temporary one (of dubious quality), then patched everything together with some rough soldering work and electrical tape.
Thank you, this is exactly what I was looking for!
And yes, my keyboard did work fine on wired mode for a while (using ZMK), but because I had to constantly plug and unplug the USB C cable while transporting the keyboard over several months, the port became loose over time. Having a magnetic USB adapter could solve that problem next time.
You mean like a mini power bank? Makes sense, since they're indeed quite easy to find! Maybe I could use USB C instead of JST connection to power each half.
[EDITED for clarity]
Hi folks. For my next wireless split build, I'm exploring battery options for easy replacement while travelling. In this scenario, the battery's reached its end of life and needs to be disposed of/replaced with a new one. However, it's difficult to receive parcels or have access to a workshop while on the move, so the dead battery should be swappable without specialised tools, and the replacement battery should be easily sourced from any local hardware store.
For some background, this just happened to me. The LiPo in my current board was directly soldered to my nice!nano (bad choice, I know). Used the board on wired mode for a while, but the USB-C port became loose at some point due to accidental dragging and unplugging (I couldn't find a magnetic USB adapter). Most local shops didn't have the 3.7 V thin-ish LiPos that I often see in wireless splits, and language barrier made finding things difficult. Fortunately, I found a replacement battery (of dubious quality), but I want to make a dedicated battery slot in my next upgrade/build in case this happens again.
I know adding JST connector is an option, but the issue is, 3.7 V LiPos can be hard to find in some countries. I'm thinking of using AA or AAA-sized batteries (one-time usage or rechargeable type). Or use an RC LiPo (7.4 V?) but step down to around 3.7 V. Not sure what additional circuit or component would be required for this.
Has anyone tried to use such batteries for your split keyboards, or have seen a project that uses them? Also, if not AA/AAA-sized batteries, what other types and/or build would you suggest for this scenario?
(Photo from: https://www.dnkpower.com/lithium-polymer-battery-guide/)