That's actually a good point. Will need to think about server location and GDPR compliance.
Have a look at purelymail mentioned by others. It's almost exactly what I'm looking for.
Amazing! Now this is something I haven't heard of. I think we might have a winner here! Best thing, I could use it for transactional mail on all my websites for 10€/yr. Including as many inboxes as needed. Nice!
This is something you used to be able to do for free, no problem. It's only a few of the big mail accepting companies being extra shitty about accepting mail making this tough. Looking at you Microsoft. So a few hundred mails per month is ridiculous both on storage, bandwidth and CPU consumption.
I specifically want to not deal with deliverability beyond the content and volume of my mails.
Mostly that they respect the privacy of my users and that they don't have shady business practices that want to push you towards an over-expensive paid tier.
Who can suggest an ethical SMTP provider for low volume transactional mail? I'm willing to pay up to 2€/month for a few hundred mails per month.
Not sure about that one. Afaik, the manufacturer of the tire should tell you what rims it fits.
I'm definitely not an expert but I would say you need at least a few mm (maybe 5mm) of clearance on each side. A bike frame is not static while you ride it.
Got a split keyboard (ergodox ez) just to notice that all the special keys are very tough to reach and there are no F-keys. All in all not such a great experience. The split part is good though if you type a loooot anf if you have wrist rests.
Kicking in the womb so that I can see it.
I'm not sure you understand. There is a mute functionality in Meet and there is one in iOS. This is so that you can have different apps with different states of mute. The OS level control is there so you can mute the mic for all apps at the same time.
I've used django CMS for a few projects and I'm quite happy with it. I've been wondering what wagtail has to offer that sets it apart from django CMS. I installed it some time ago but didn't dive very deep.
So what are the strengths and weaknesses of both systems?
After a cold and rainy start of spring, finally the beans are sprouting. We also have a bunch of tomatoes and brassicae.
Let's hope the abundant snails don't take too much.
We got a Tetra hen from a friend who can't keep it anymore yesterday. Fortunately we were looking to get a couple of chickens anyways, so we had purchased a used coop some weeks ago.
To our surprise, our cute new chicken, Clémentine gave us an egg already on the first morning. What a nice surprise.
Don't worry, we won't keep it alone for too long, we're looking to get one or two more friends.
I just got an old Ender 3 for cheap and wanted to replace the crappy extruder with a nicer bowden extruder of my (now) direct drive Kobra Max. When I connect the new stepper, nothing moves. It's a longer stepper and a different manufacturer. Is the wiring different or VREF wrong or are there other reasons why it wouldn't move? The driver is good, since the old stepper is still working.
Thanks for any help!
Hello fellow bike commuters,
I have the impression that my underwear doesn't last as long as it would without me cycling to and from work five times a week. My boxer briefs get holes too quickly between the legs. Since I can't remember a time where I didn't cycle, it's difficult for me to know if this is due to cycling or the normal way for them to die.
Can anyone here tell me about their experience? Is this related to cycling frequently? More importantly, do you know of special cyclist underwear which is not the sporty padded type but something you could wear all day and which would't rip so easily.
Has anyone thought about printing narrower lines in order to get sharper corners? Once Linear advance or Pressure advance is activated, you don't get bulging corners anymore... but can we do better?
Has this been implemented anywhere yet? Does it have a name?
Hey, I've recently designed a Poster about the FHS since I often forget where I should place or find things. Do you have any feedback how to make it better?
Edit: updated with new version
Hey, I've recently designed a Poster about the FHS since I often forget where I should place or find things. Do you have any feedback how to make it better?
Edit: Put up new version
Dark mode
This Halloween I finally realized my dream from years ago, an articulate T-Rex tail. Unfortunately I didn't have the time to also create a mask/ helmet that goes with it. That's gonna be for next time. The thing is modeled in blender and printed in vase mode. The individual pieces have four holes drilled in and are held together by wooden rods. I initially imagined keeping them together with printed buttons but the rod design worked perfectly on a small scale model.
Made a bunch of improvements to where I actually use it to print kid toys. The printing starts slow to help the first layer stick; it speeds up later in the video. I had to dub it over because the original audio recorded by the phone was too hard to understand. Some other videos: The Z mechanism...
This video by dizekat shows a new kind of kinematic system based on string. It should be possible to make very fast but cheap printers like this due to low inertia of the system. Very interesting!
In my last post I described how I mounted the Orbiter v2.0 to a Kobra Max in a makeshift fashion. This time I show you how the finished mounting looks like.
Previous attempts. The ones in white worked but had the extruder dangle, the black ones failed to be mounted for various reasons.
Find the stl and Freecad file here.
I've been looking to switch the bowden extruder for a direct drive type on my Anycubic Kobra Max. I've always hated the blobbing and stringing due to the bowden mechanism. After having received an LDO Orbiter v2.0 today and a bit of tinkering, I now have what I was after :).
The easiest way to install the new extruder was to simply attach it on top of the existing hotend via a small bowden tube and a coupler. I had to design a little adapter flange that attaches to the extruder and accepts a tube coupler. The extruder now dangles in the air. For now this didn't seem to cause any trouble. In the future I might install it using a fixed bracket though.
While I was at it, I also added some additional insulation to the bed (300x300mm in size, so I had to cut a bit). I'm not sure if it really helps a lot but the bed now heats up from 20° to 60° in 3:40 instead of in 4:00. The printer also seems to consume 100mA less (very inaccurate mental averaging of power meter).
Bonus: First functional part printed with new setup, rectifying some of the original parts issues. !
Up next: Get a second Orbiter and have it feed a mixing hotend. My goal is to make nice Lampshades.