I recently installed LDO's version of the Clicky-Clack Fridge Door on my Voron 2.4 350.

My 2.4 is stock in terms of heating other than having the filter, ACM panels, and 2x bed fans.

Takeaways?

• If you want to make graphs, make sure you have comparable conditions. I was printing during both graphs and the prints had different aspect ratios (before was taller than wide, after was wider than tall). This probably explains why before appears to have heated faster
• The better sealing door, with thicker acrylic did help chamber temps, but only by 3 degrees C
• It takes a very long time to heat soak a 350mm^3 chamber, even with 4x bed fans
• I wish I had a graph before I swapped the ACM panels on, but I don't and the panels are gone :(

I will be lining my panels with radiant insulation in the next week or three and will report back what, if any, changes that makes.

>Shenzhen-based 3D printer manufacturer Bambu Lab has launched a new firmware for its X1 Series of 3D printers. The optional security update introduces authorization and authentication controls for key 3D printing operations, altering how third-party software interacts with the 3D printer.

>Some in the 3D printing community have not received the news well, leading to Bambu Lab refuting claims that the firmware, currently undergoing beta testing, restricts third-party tools or forces users into a closed ecosystem. Those who choose not to install the update can continue using external software without any changes. The company has also introduced a new tool called Bambu Connect, designed to integrate third-party software with updated printers. Bambu Lab is collaborating with software developers, including Orca Slicer, to ensure a seamless connection with external tools.

Part 2

tl;dr: "Fuck You, we're right, but here's a crumb from the table" but in PR-speak.

There'll be a Lan-Mode (still requiring Bambu Connect), and a Dev-Mode (which will continue MQTT, live steam and FTP).

The Writing continues to be on the wall.

>Bambu Lab recently announced a firmware security update for its printers that would introduce an official “authorization control” system for critical printer operations. The update is presented as a way to mitigate the “risk of remote hacks or printer exposure issues that have happened in the past, and also lower the risk of abnormal traffic or attacks.”

>The new firmware will not allow Bambu Lab printers to interface with popular 3rd party software or hardware upgrades such as Orca Slicer or BigTreeTech’s Panda Touch screen. Now, users will need to download “Bambu Connect” to act as a one-way go-between.

I got a P1S as a Christmas present for me and my wife. For now, my plan is to block its internet connection and stop using the Bambu app altogether. When/if it his stops working for me, what does the community recommend as a replacement for newbies like me, or future newbs who haven’t made this mistake?

In light of recent developments with Bambu's Authorization system, I thought I'd share what has worked for me to keep my printer secure in my network, and control any updates to either the printer's firmware or to Bambu Studio.

First, I have my printer set in LAN mode and connected on a separate VLAN which has all outbound Internet traffic blocked. This is setup on my router/firewall PC running pfSense. My desktop PC running Bambu Studio is on my normal usage VLAN which does have Internet access. In order to discover the printer in the separate VLAN, I use a package in pfSense called "UDP Broadcast Relay", and set it up to rebroadcast between the two VLAN's anything on port 2021 which is what the printer uses to advertise itself on the network. Keep the spoof source set as 'Original' address. As long as my desktop PC's VLAN has access inbound into the printer's locked down VLAN, bambu studio will be able to connect to the printer once it sees the advertisements. If you don't run pfSense or something similar, and your printer is on your same network, check your router to see if it has a built in firewall. You might be able to set a static IP for your printer, and then block that IP's outbound traffic.

Secondly, to lock down Bambu Studio, I've created two rules in windows firewall. The first one is inbound, which is set to allow only traffic to the bambustudio.exe program from my local networks. The other one is an outbound rule to block all traffic from the program, except for my two local networks (the two VLANs). If you have any existing inbound rules for BambuStudio, which you likely do from when windows first asked you if you wanted to allow the program to connect to the internet, disable them. This will still allow connection to the printer, but block any accidental or sneaky updates that you weren't aware of, or accidentally clicked to update when you didn't mean to. This also blocks any access to maker's world community models from within the program, but you can still go there in your browser. In fact if you can still see the models online on the home page of the program, you didn't get your firewall rules setup right. These rules will also block your browsers ability to open files from makers world directly into bambu studio if that's what you're used to, but you can download the 3mf file and then open it as an extra step.

If I ever decided I do want to apply an update, I can temporarily disable the firewall rules. However, in the past I really only updated to get the profiles for new bambu filaments in both the studio and the AMS. This is moot now, as I don't plan on ever buying Bambu materials again unless they reverse course.

Hope this helps someone

I have a printer I have basically built. It is a tronxy frame (and corexy motion), but over the years I have added linear rails, a duet 3d control board, quad zscrew independent leveling, a zesty nimble extruder, and other things.

My printer was down for 6 months or so, a new kitten we got ate some wires and it took me a bit to get the motivation to rebuild it. It turned out just a couple of things got unplugged and I was quickly back in business.

Ever since starting printing again I noticed that my tolerance has been off and it seemed to be over extruding quite a bit. I tuned my steps per mm, and driver power on the extruder motor to no avail. Eventually I replaced the motor and the nozzle (which was perfectly in check but if I was going that far I figured why not). It seems to have solved the problem... Sort of.

I have been using the prusa procedure to test and tune extrusion multiplier: print a 40x40x40 cube in vase mode, and measure the wall thickness. My extrusion width is .45mm, and until today I was getting a width of .52-.54mm. the replacement parts have cured this, if I measure in the right spots with my micrometer I get .45 exactly. But I have these bands. If I measure the high spots on the bands I get the same .52+ mm.

I looked at some of my old test boxes:

!

I have the same bands but different patterns.

A little googling and someone suggested (for a similar problem) that belt tendon was unequal. From what I can feel my tension seems to be the same.

I'm printing a tolerance test now to see if my issues are fixed, but I only feel 50% confident. Does anyone have any advice as to what might be going wrong? My belts have been on the printer since upgrading to linear rails and could probably use changing... But hopefully someone else has an idea?

tl;dr Don't hate on people who got tricked into buying a Bambu printer. Direct your hatred to Bambu itself.

We all know about the anti-consumer Bambu Printer changes by now. But I think it's important to remember not to make fun of people who already bought one. In fact, most agree with you that these changes are unacceptable. So those people already got kicked in the gut.

As someone who bought from Prusa instead of Bambu, I completely understand the feeling of "Ha, I told you so!" But spreading that on every post is actually counter-productive. Remember that most people who bought a Bambu printer did so because it topped every "best 3D printers" list, had tons of sponsored content, and were affordable easy-to-use printers. Not everybody heard about the potential for such anti-consumer changes to be made. And many who did know were often misled into thinking it wouldn't happen.

Instead of being critical of individuals, be critical of Bambu themselves. Bambu are the ones who screwed over tons of people who love this hobby. If we want to see 3D printing be an open-source style hobby, then we need to help people see the value in that. So if anything, this is the chance for you to make more people aware of good, open systems. If you make fun of people and point fingers at them, you are just making them defensive. Don't make them direct any hatred at you that could be directed at the company itself.

Hope this isn't too preachy. I just wanted to get this out there.

As you may know, I now wear 3D-printed glasses.

I've been wearing glasses for decades, since age 3, and because I'm lazy, I never take off my glasses even when I sleep, I'm not sure how, but even when I'm asleep, I never turn into a position that would damage my glasses. Decades of habit I guess...

Anyhow, the point is, apart from when I shower and when I go to the swimming pool, those 3D-printed glasses are sitting squarely on my face all day, every day. So probably close to 23.5 hours a day.

And I'm happy to report, PLA and PETG seem to have zero effects on my skin. No rash, no redness, no itching, zero discomfort. I've worn each material for at least 2 months straight and they seem perfectly fine.

I don't see any degradation of either material either, even after being exposed to acidity and oil from my skin for hours on end. I didn't expect PETG to react to anything, since it's more or less the same stuff soda bottles are made of, but I thought maybe PLA would degrade. But it doesn't. Perhaps it degrades slower than I anticipated. I'll report back in a year 🙂

Anybody got any tips on what to print, i'm curious to see it.

I weighed it and it's about 15/16 gram, but my x1c also uses up some filament before it starts printing.

Recently bought an A1 mini with AMS, which has been generally great. I have been printing various things, but was thinking if the wasted filament during color changes could be further reduced.

I was wondering, if the color change happens on a high layer, why does the prime tower need to be built as high in order to flush when the color change happens? Is it not a good idea to have the prime tower not generated up until the color change is needed, and then start building it on the plate directly?

This would imply z axis movement whenever the color changes, but is it bad for some reason? It would take slightly more time, but the filament change already takes plenty of time so I assume it is not a factor of the already printed model cooling or so. Could it be something like we want to avoid unnecessary Z axis movements to avoid alignment mistakes maybe with the current layer, if the z movement is not considered precise enough?

Or it is just considered that the aavings of building a shorter tower any not that much comparatively? Anyone more knowledgeable has any thoughts?

Howdy, folks!

I'm teetering on the brink of connecting my Sovol3D S06 ACE to my wireless network, but I'm pausing because this device can make physical real-world actions like:

• record photos and videos using its built-in camera
• shaking so much that it manages to knock itself on the floor
• melting so much plastic that it dribbles all over itself and then all over everything around and beneath it
• consume lots of electricity and cost me a fortune on my utilities bill
• burn the house down

None of this happens in normal usage, of course, but watching it self-calibrate did make me wonder:

• how safe the firmware is?
• is it retrieving instructions from Sovol3D or some other party by itself?
• is it sending records of my print jobs to a 3rd party?
• is it sending photos and videos to a 3rd party?
• how safe the firmware is once its receiving arbitrary network traffic?

All IPv4 traffic from the internet goes through a NAT/firewall that I conceivable control, but my devices all get public-facing IPv6 addresses, and the default SSH password on all of these printers is publicly-documented

It looks like the Sovol3D S06 ACE firmware is https://www.klipper3d.org/ + https://www.obico.io/ + some unknown amount of stuff that Sovol3D adds on top, and it doesn't seem like they've kept the public source code up-to-date: https://github.com/Sovol3d/SV06-ACE

I do already self-host https://www.home-assistant.io/ and plan to integrate the 3D printer with it, avoiding any cloud behaviour as much as possible, but I'm wondering if anyone else has already done this and has any advice on what to avoid?

Cheers! <3

The light in the Bambu Lab P1S is nice, but not very bright. It can be hard to see what happens when printing in black or to check the nozzle. I saw some youtuber upgrade his setup and I started to look around for what solutions there are. I found the BL LED mod by Dutch Developer and it looked like exactly what I wanted. I simply ordered that and a cheap LED strip. I had a LED driver already.

!

The parts assembled easily. The frame was also created by Dutch Developer and printed perfectly in PETG.

!

Sticking the LED strip to the frame was also painless.

!

Before

!

After

Looks like Bambu is getting more enshittified. I am so glad I didn't let my recent frustration at my clumsiness with my Prusa steer me into Bambu-land.

Here's a method I've developed to splice filaments almost to perfection without any tools. It's basically the Teflon tube method for cheapskates who don't want to buy Teflon tubing 🙂

First of all, prepare a 2" x 2" (50mm x 50mm) -ish piece of white paper and a straighten a piece of filament that will serve as a mandrel:

!

Roll up the paper into a tube around the piece of straightened filament as tight as you can. The hard bit is to start rolling: the paper needs to be really snug against the filament to start with.

Once it's started right, it's easy. Roll it up all the way nice and flat. The bit of filament inside should fit inside the tube with quite a lot of friction if you did it right:

!

You can also wet it a few times with your tongue and it will stay in one piece without holding it. Ex-smoker's habits die hard 🙂

!

Cut the ends of the filaments to splice together with a sharp bevel:

!

Carefully thread the ends into the paper tube so they meet halfway:

!

They should go in with some force but they should slide smoothly. If you feel any roughness, you've snagged the paper inside and it won't work, so you should start over.

Heat up the center of the tube at 250C to 260C while ramming the filaments into each other firmly, but not so firmly as to collapse the paper tube, until you feel them "go" and melt into one another:

!

I use a SMD rework station because you can apply heat as much as you want and the paper only browns a bit, even if you overdo it grossly. It takes about 30 seconds for the heat to diffuse through the paper and for the filaments to melt fully. It's doable with a lighter too while pushing the filaments together with one hand, but it's less convenient of course.

Then unwrap the paper: some paper should stay stuck to the splice:

!

Clean up the splice by running a sharp knife along the splice all around. It's pretty quick, the paper isn't terminally fused to the filament:

!

Voila: perfect splice!

!

And here, seen under a microscope:

!

Technically it’s for any printer capable of printing a firearm or the components of a firearm, which is…. every printer. What a bafflingly stupid proposal. If you’re in NY, please call your reps and tell them to oppose this bill.

Created a new replacement dust adapter for my circular saw that replaces the original one. The original didn’t fit my Nilfisk Multi II 30 shop vac. Now I don’t need to fiddle with the adapter I first made.

Sharing if someone has the same combination: https://makerworld.com/en/models/996710

Got some hexagonal magnetic fidget toys for Christmas, they were pretty limiting in what shapes they could be used to make, so I designed and printed a much more shapes.

Got way too deep into this, and keep running out of magnets. Used over 500 magnets printing and playing with these.

Just hoping someone here can give me info on the pin out of the power lead so I can buy a replacement. I contacted 3dSystems, and they sent me the EoL package along with the code to unlock the printer. The EoL package has not been helpful for the power supply issue, and weeks of combing the web and forums has come up with nothing. So I'm hoping someone here can help me out.

Thanks for any help you lovely folk can come up with!

Long story short, I am not mechanically inclined. I want my shit to just work. Somehow I decided I would order the MK4S upgrade kit for the prusa MK4 that I have. It took me about 12 hours but I did the upgrade and turned it on only to find it wouldn't boot with a power panic error message.

I tracked it down to a cable that got disconnected during all the upgrading, and when I went to push it back onto the board it bent the pins. When I tried to straighten them out the pens broke off and now I have a $2,000 paperweight on my desk.

EDIT: Ok, i am now rested and calmed down, and no i will not be buying an X1C from the CCP Bambu. Support was indeed super cool, and i'd need to spend another 120 for a new xbuddy since mistakes like this are not under warranty. However, my dad is a lifelong hardware electronics pro, and he seemed to indicate this should be no sweat to fix, so we shall commit mad science before i just buy another one.

Since everyone here seemed to like my Pegboard designs, I figured I'd share this as well. When making the Only Sensor (see the home automation community or my site), I used this Solder Fume Extractor to keep my lungs nice and clean.

Fully 3D printable, and a full bill or materials on the link. Enjoy!

Hrm, not sure why the image returned a logo, but here it is:

!

https://nowsci.com/diy-solder-extractor

Now that Benchy's are off the market, what are your go to test models? I've seen Cali Cat and the torture toaster as examples.

Are there any reviewers on YouTube/Rumble/etc. or independent blogs that don't post affiliate links, aren't sponsored by the printer company, or had one sent out by the company? Those to me all seem like a conflict of interest.

Yes people need to make money, I'm not blind to that, but they can advertise other things that aren't a direct conflict of interest.

I'm looking to get my first printer and would like to get info from an unbiased source. I just don't know enough to weed through the million 3D printer channels.

The Sovol SV06 Ace seems nice with little research as it is large enough to print the project I have in mind and uses open source firmware (Klipper) which is a must for me.

I run half a dozen Duet but one of them started to give me a lot of headaches and only this one (unique hardware + configuration so no other to compare to).

issue: tool head 3 heater is always enabled. The software detects a thermal runaway but the heater stays enabled. The only option to stop the machine from catching fire is to remove the main power.

Hardware:

• Duet 2 wifi
• Due5X

troubleshooting done (hardware):

• measuring the mosfets => good
• checking the driver for obvious issues with a multimeter => no issue found
• moving toolheads hotends around. Issue persists on #3 spot (4th toolhead) so it is unrelated to the tool head. disconnecting it entirely also causes the heater to stay on
• removing the SD-card => issue is gone.
• sometimes it works like it should. Most of the time it doesn't.
• on this particular unit there were some other minor anomalies regarding the WIFI earlier (wouldn't connect to the network) but those fixed themselves after a few rounds of resetting the wifi module, adding it to the wifi network again, waiting a few days for it fail once more.

**TL;DR Is my assumption correct that this indicated an issue with the Firmware from Duet which isn't just on this device but also on the newer Duet 3?

Did anybody has run into a similar issue and was able to resolve it?

In the wider picture: Is every duet product unsafe?** This is an older Duet 2 but it runs the same/similar firmware as the current generation Duet 3. So one of the big questions is if all of the Duet products are unsafe. Would be bad as this has been my controller of choice meaning a lot of work to replace all of them.

Btw. If you buy a duet: don't expect ANY support from the manufacturer.

Here is the main config file:

spoiler

___ ; Configurat; Configuration file for Duet WiFi / Ethernet ; executed by the firmware on start-up

; General preferences M111 S0 ; Debugging off G21 ; Work in millimetres G90 ; Send absolute coordinates... M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves M555 P2 ; Set firmware compatibility to look like Marlin

; Network ; Read https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M587_Add_WiFi_host_network_to_remembered_list_or_list_remembered_networks M550 P"ToolChanger" ; Set machine name M552 S1 ; Enable Networking M586 P0 S1 ; Enable HTTP M586 P1 S0 ; Disable FTP M586 P2 S1 ; Enable Telnet M667 S1 ; Select CoreXY mode

; Endstops M574 X1 Y1 S3 ; Set X / Y endstop stall detection M574 Z1 S2 ; Set Z endstop probe M558 C"zstop" P8 X0 Y0 Z2 H3 F360 I0 T20000 ; Set Z probe type to switch, the axes for which it is used and the dive height + speeds G31 P200 X0 Y0 Z-0.10 ; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height M557 X10:290 Y20:180 S20 ; Define mesh grid

; Drive direction M569 P0 S0 ; Drive 0 X M569 P1 S0 ; Drive 1 Y M569 P2 S1 ; Drive 2 Z M569 P3 S0 ; Drive 3 E0 M569 P4 S1 ; Drive 4 E1 M569 P5 S1 ; Drive 5 E2 M569 P6 S1 ; Drive 6 E3 M569 P7 S0 ; Drive 7 COUPLER M569 P8 S0 ; Drive 8 UNUSED M569 P9 S0 ; Drive 9 UNUSED

M584 X0 Y1 Z2 C7 E3:4:5:6 ; Apply custom drive mapping M208 X-35:328.5 Y-49:243 Z0:300 C0:260 S0 ; Set axis maxima & minima M350 C8 I0 ; Configure microstepping without interpolation M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16:16:16:16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation M92 X100 Y100 Z1600 C100 E655:655:655:655 ; Set steps per mm M566 X400 Y400 Z30 C2 E300:300:300:300 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min) "was 2 before" M203 X35000 Y35000 Z1200 C5000 E3600:3600:3600:3600 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min) M201 X6000 Y6000 Z400 C400 E600:600:600:600 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2) M906 X2000 Y2000 Z1330 C400 E500:500:500:600 I30 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in percent M84 S120 ; Set idle timeout

;Stall Detection M915 C S5 F0 H200 ; Coupler

;Stall Detection M915 X Y S3 F0 H400 R2 ; X / Y Axes ;M915 X Y S5 F0 H400 ; OLD X / Y Axes

; Heaters M308 S0 P"bedtemp" Y"thermistor" A"Bed" T100000 B4725 C7.06e-8 ; Set thermistor M950 H0 C"bedheat" T0 ; Bed heater M140 H0 ; Add heater to bed after RRF3.01 RC10 M143 H0 S200 ; Set temperature limit for heater 0 to 225C

M308 S1 P"e0temp" Y"thermistor" A"T0" T500000 B4723 C1.19622e-7 ; Set thermistor M950 H1 C"e0heat" T1 ; Extruder 0 heater M143 H1 S350 ; Set temperature limit for heater 1 to 300C

M308 S2 P"e1temp" Y"thermistor" A"T1" T100000 B4725 C7.06e-8 ; Set thermistor M950 H2 C"e1heat" T2 ; Extruder 0 heater M143 H2 S300 ; Set temperature limit for heater 2 to 300C

M308 S3 P"e2temp" Y"thermistor" A"T2" T100000 B4725 C7.06e-8 ; Set thermistor M950 H3 C"duex.e2heat" T3 ; Extruder 0 heater M143 H3 S300 ; Set temperature limit for heater 3 to 300C

M308 S4 P"e3temp" Y"thermistor" A"T3" T100000 B4725 C7.06e-8 ; Set thermistor M950 H4 C"duex.e3heat" T4 ; Extruder 0 heater M143 H4 S300 ; Set temperature limit for heater 4 to 300C

; Tools M563 P0 S"T0" D0 H1 F2 ; Define tool 0 G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Reset tool 0 axis offsets G10 P0 R0 S0 ; Reset initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C

M563 P1 S"T1" D1 H2 F4 ; Define tool 1 G10 P1 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Reset tool 1 axis offsets G10 P1 R0 S0 ; Reset initial tool 1 active and standby temperatures to 0C

M563 P2 S"T2" D2 H3 F6 ; Define tool 2 G10 P2 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Reset tool 2 axis offsets G10 P2 R0 S0 ; Reset initial tool 2 active and standby temperatures to 0C

M563 P3 S"T3" D3 H4 F8 ; Define tool 3 G10 P3 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Reset tool 3 axis offsets G10 P3 R0 S0 ; Reset initial tool 3 active and standby temperatures to 0C

; Fans

M950 F1 C"fan1" M950 F2 C"fan2" M950 F3 C"duex.fan3" M950 F4 C"duex.fan4" M950 F5 C"duex.fan5" M950 F6 C"duex.fan6" M950 F7 C"duex.fan7" M950 F8 C"duex.fan8"

M106 P0 S0 ; UNUSED M106 P1 S255 H1 T70 ; T0 HE M106 P2 S0 ; T0 PCF M106 P3 S255 H2 T70 ; T1 HE M106 P4 S0 ; T1 PCF M106 P5 S255 H3 T70 ; T2 HE M106 P6 S0 ; T2 PCF M106 P7 S255 H4 T70 ; T3 HE M106 P8 S0 ; T3 PCF

M593 F42.2 ; cancel ringing at 50Hz (https://forum.e3d-online.com/threads/accelerometer-and-resonance-measurements-of-the-motion-system.3445/) ;M376 H15 ; bed compensation taper

;tool offsets ; !ESTIMATED! offsets for: ; V6-tool: X-9 Y39 Z-5 ; Volcano-tool: X-9 Y39 Z-13.5 ; Hemera-tool: X-37.5 Y43.5 Z-6

G10 P0 X-9 Y39 Z-5.0 ; T0 G10 P1 X-9 Y38.7 Z-4.7 ; T1 G10 P2 X-8.9 Y38.5 Z-4.8 ; T2 G10 P3 X-9.1 Y38.5 Z-4.7 ; T3

;deselect tools T-1

M572 D0 S0.02 ; pressure advance T0 M572 D1 S0.02 ; pressure advance T1 M572 D2 S0.02 ; pressure advance T2 M572 D3 S0.02 ; pressure advance T3 M575 P1 S1 B57600 M501; load config-override.g

config-overwrite:

spoiler

___ ; config-override.g file generated in response to M500 at 2021-04-13 12:07 ; This is a system-generated file - do not edit ; Heater model parameters M307 H0 R1.331 C160.969:160.969 D2.79 S1.00 V24.4 B0 M307 H1 R2.634 C271.153:235.156 D6.07 S1.00 V24.3 B0 M307 H2 R1.953 C229.435:178.815 D5.00 S1.00 V24.3 B0 M307 H3 R1.858 C222.604:195.090 D5.31 S1.00 V24.4 B0 M307 H4 R1.612 C251.412:217.040 D7.48 S1.00 V24.4 B0 ; Workplace coordinates G10 L2 P1 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00 C0.00 G10 L2 P2 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00 C0.00 G10 L2 P3 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00 C0.00 G10 L2 P4 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00 C0.00 G10 L2 P5 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00 C0.00 G10 L2 P6 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00 C0.00 G10 L2 P7 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00 C0.00 G10 L2 P8 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00 C0.00 G10 L2 P9 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00 C0.00 M486 S-1

I accidentally got the PETG filament instead of the PLA which I normally work with. I have an Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro.

Here's what was weird:

• The test strip went across the bottom of the board instead of the side. It went back to the side when I put the PLA back in.

• The temperture melting point changed automatically from 200 F to 220 and then back again when I switched back to PLA.

Does the printer know what kind of filament I'm using and if so, how?

ETA: The filaments have all been the Elegoo brand filaments.

I really want to buy a printer (resin or filament), but I'm concerned about the health aspects concerning inhaling the dust.

Is it really safe to have a printer indoors? Should I rig up something on my balcony instead? What room do you have yours in?

How do you guys deal with the dust? Do enclosures work? Any complaints from family members?

I've been at it again.

I've been using the hell out of these drawer thingies, what with you fill with Gridfinity bins and store pocketknives various things in.

Well, I screwed myself over and it turns out I need a stack of drawers one cell narrower than stock. The original author posted sources in Onshape but I will be buggered if I'm signing up for Yet Another Account just for that.

So I reconstructed the entire thing -- my way -- in FreeCAD. Because obviously that's the less insane option. (I guess this also allowed me to excise the magnet ears from the drawers, which is a worthless increase in print time and small waste of material for me since I don't use magnets with my Gridfinity bins)

Anyway, here it is.

!

This is my dinky 2x2 test print. Which is very nearly but not quite completely useless. (For instance, it fits Nite-Ize cable ties very well, as you can see.) If it makes you feel any better, the generator absolutely will make you a 1x1, 1u tall drawer assembly if you ask it to which truly will be fully useless...

What could cause the strange part on the right? The whole surface should be the same, it's a 90° wall, so nothing that should look like this. Can't see anything strange in OrcaSlicer. BambuLab A1 Mini with Creality PLA+

Fourth try on a print. Tried to add some adhesive to the bed to get it to stick better. Watched the first two layers and went to bed. Woke up to a printer on strike.

After immersing myself in 3D printer content on YouTube and Lemmy, I'd talked myself all the way up to spending AU$2000 which is just absurd for a first timer, but then talked myself into the Sovol3D S06 ACE as a decent starting point, haha

Anyhow, I'll be running this in my garage (garage door open) and I think the first batch of filament in the pack is either PLA or PETG, which seems beginner friendly

I've been wondering about 3D printer profiles and calibration in slicer apps... is there a way to print as many benchies that will fit on the bed, but each which different profile parameters, so I can see which profiles do or don't work best? Or do current slicer apps always produce a plan that uses the same parameters for the entire job?

Note that I'm 100% on Linux (no Windows here), so I'm probably limited to https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer or https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer (or maybe https://github.com/GladiusSlicer/GladiusSlicer if I'm in the mood for contributing my own code)

I've consumed probably too much YouTube at this point, but any especially important hints and tips for a first timer would be appreciated!

P.S. oh, just noticed, https://lemmy.ml/post/23597074 thanks!

I could edit the firmware but I like this just in case there are thermocouple issues.

I can also point a heat gun at it for a minute.

Snowflake Tie fighter card kit looks good in this blue clear PETG.

https://www.printables.com/model/91927-snowflake-tie-fighter-kit-card-ornament