Just a test for my new CNC machine. I got the file from here: Scantheworld and turned it into a relief using ZBrush and Photoshop. The wood I used is cherry and the sice of the carving is roughly 60x50mm.

It's super cool and all, but also kind of ominous? I feel like something more inviting might be a better fit.

I'd really love to start making something, even if it's basic. Any tips on where to start? Tools, wood, etc?

And toolmaking, the gouge was hand-fashioned from some vanadium steel.

I got a good deal on some pecan and i was planning to use it to build patio furniture. I don't know much about pecan and I'm having trouble finding much info about it. Is this a good wood for outdoor use or should i find an indoor project for it?

I’m not active enough of an internet guy to remember to actually post stuff - so we’re going back 6 months…

I surprised my daughter (and the entire family) on Christmas morning when they found this waiting in the living room. I hadn’t told my partner I’d been working on anything, kept it quiet.

It’s all just pine, dressed all round. Had to go buy a cheap and nasty jigsaw to cut the doors and opening between floors since my coping saw broke whilst trying to work this (handle snapped clean off, thanks Stanley)

The roof- cut at an angle, turned one piece over and glued it. Then stood like a statue holding it for half an hour pressing it against the ground until it dried enough. Couldn’t think of any other way to hold it tight at that angle -_-

The floors and balcony are all slotted into through dados. Cut, chiseled and then cleaned up a bit with trim router. And I hate so much working pine with chisels! (I’ve since got a bigger router bit that would have made this much easier)

Finished with water based Jarrah stain, with water based acrylic paint on the roof and “bathroom”. Some of that finish is really sloppy, I was still out there late on Christmas Eve trying to get the last few coats on.

A leftover sheet of mdf (think about 5mm) just painted and nailed in as the back wall.

There’s a little set of stairs on the ground floor finished with dark carnauba wax. There’s also a little rope ladder going up to the top floor - was from our pet bird who had left us recently.

A whole mish mash of different ideas here, but I just wanted to make something fun and interesting for my daughter.

For what I wanted to do for her first big Christmas (just turned 3), this turned out better than I thought I could do.

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I decided to sand down the top, drawer front, and low shelf edges, but leave the spindles alone. I tried to match the stain but the one I bought (and tried on a hidden area) came out too red, so I skipped staining. Luckily several coats of poly ended up close enough.

Before (previous post):

!top before refinishing

I'm working on replacing my porch furniture, and the side table was the worst of the lot so it got replaced first.

I've built a few little tables by now and I've got a lot of the process down. I used this one as an excuse to practice making actual mortise and tenon joints instead of the loose tenons I've used in the past. The mortises that the center brace sits in were chiseled by hand, the others are routed.

I'm thinking of making a couple outdoor-friendly morris chairs to replace those old iron ones. That'll be a minute though.

... they will send your wireless earbuds flying into the dirtiest corners of your work area if you're not careful with the elastic straps.

It has seen some water damage and the varnish is flaking off (especially on the top). But I don't necessarily have the time/energy for a full strip/sand/refinish, especially as this may get dinged up; I'm just looking for a reasonably pleasing look.

Looking at the bare wood that was between assembled pieces, it looks like the piece was stained and then varnished. What's a good way to get the old flaking varnish off without messing up the stain -- Citristip, just sanding? Thinking I'll just put some coats of new polyeurethane varnish on as the new finish. Most instructions I see online are for a really thorough refinishing, so I'm wondering if there's some middle ground that will clean up the worst of the water damage and protect the wood, even if it doesn't look like new.

Closer view of the top:

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cross-posted from: https://pixelfed.crimedad.work/p/crimedad/705187000877520551

> Is this correct for the updated blade guard on a radial arm saw? > > The carriage doesn't go back far enough for the blade guard to fall down behind the fence. I thought the guard was supposed to keep the carriage in the home position until the user lifts it with the lever on the handle. I'm wondering if I did something wrong. Any RAS users know what I'm talking about? > > \#woodworking #RadialArmSaw #SafetyFirst > > @crosspost@lemmy.crimedad.work

Another angle below. Very dinged up and the end and legs were missing, but seemed like to much hardwood to pass to.

!another angle

I'm guessing this is the result of layers of slathering a fresh layer of finish on these tables. To be honest, I kind of like the look. Any idea what type of finish this might be?

Here's a slightly different angle:

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Hi, I'm currently carving a bear out of a maple burl. I'm getting to fine details such as teeth and claws. Does anyone have any recommendations as to how I can stabilize these pieces so they are less likely to break?

A little beer boat, HV Kaljaasi, made for the summer cottage and warm summer days, when you can sit in the lake and enjoy the sun.

Made from various little pieces of wood, sticks, glue and rocks inside the hull for steadying the boat. Swims well, even if it tilts little to the left.

My family had one from decades ago that's falling apart, so I made a replacement. I went with toothpicks as little dowels to help join the crossbars to their supports, since the flat glue joint didn't hold for all of them.

!toothpick dowels

I had this one on my list for a while, but also recently found a video from 3x3 Custom doing the same project.

Maple/mahogany stave drum I made for my drummer.

It's actually just friction fit together in this picture; as I type it's in the clamps as the glue dries. Tomorrow some final touch up sanding and the first of four coats of spar varnish, then a few decades on my front porch under a couple potted plants.

There's an education in all this oak; it looks conceptually simple compared to the shaker tables I've done so far, right? IT AIN'T! Each leg cambers out by 5 degrees in both directions, and that tiny difference make this project SO much more obnoxious than a table with vertical legs. Laying things out accounting for that compound miter at the top and bottom is "fun." The upper and lower frame rails are no longer the same length, they're different but related lengths. That lower panel? Can't be installed with the frame assembled. Hell I didn't even bother attaching it in any way, it's just captive in there.

Unlike the previous tables I've built that are held together with floating tenons, the rails are thin and fit entirely into mortises in the legs, which meant some chisel work squaring the corners of the mortises, so I gained quite a bit of experience with chisels here.

But, another project nearing completion.

I've got 20 of these to carve out, and I've only done a smidgen of carving before. Luckily my boss trusts me enough with his antique carving tools

Before I started carving: !

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I was checking to see how a 3/4" dog hole would look in a vise jaw made from two 3/4" pieces of plywood. Just clamped for the test, but would be glue for the real thing. Interesting to see the hole opened up. And luckily no splitting, but do you think it would work as an actual vise jaw? This is for a Veritas quick release front vise, so the jaw is only supported in the middle.

I'm trying to make my own window sills in our new house. We have windows rather deep so depth is around 9in and wide - 42/60in. I'm looking at read oak vs douglas fir. Red oak is mainly available in sub 8in cuts. The only one I found in 9in is 3/4 thick. Would that be sufficient to support plant pots or potentially human sitting on them? However Fir I can get in various sizes so I was looking at 1in thick.

Which one would be more practical? Oak at 3/4 or Fir at 1in?

My reading was that fir is sufficiently softer so plant pots may leave imprints etc. or am I wrong there?

I had an old can of poly in the basement, and decided to give it a try. Thin crust on top, poured kind of like egg whites. But after mixing with mineral spirits it seemed smooth, and the result on my new plywood workbench top is smooth and fully cured as far as I can tell. !workbench !surface

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/15221988

> 476,000-year-old ancient woodworking discovery rewrites early human history

Using cedar 2x4s cut to 1.5x3. Planning to seal with outdoor polyurithane varnish. Any thoughts on the design thus far?

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I'm not sure where the right place to post this would be, but here goes.

I bought this DW745 Type 2 saw off of Facebook Marketplace. I think it was abused. I replaced both of the elevating shafts (5140100-04 Diagram # 82 & 5140100-05 Diagram # 84). I also had to replace both of the bevel gears (5140061-65 Diagram # 56).

The aluminum housing seems to be okay and the lifting shafts move in and out without much resistance. I'm still getting this chunky movement when I raise and lower the blade.

I'm looking for advice before I go though the whole process of replacing the entire aluminum housing (Gear Case A25607 Diagram # 213) on the motor.

!DeWalt DW745 Exploded Diagram

Part of a larger project I’m working on, which takes the “waste sawdust” and grows a Reishi mushroom out of it.

I made this from a long piece cherry offcut that I've had sitting around for ages. Here's a better picture of the interesting bit: https://i.imgur.com/LV0ep0a.jpeg I'm honestly not thrilled with the finish. I thought I'd sanded out all the little 'scales' the planer leaves, but many came back when I put the oil on.

I realize this is a woodworking community so don’t kill me, but I’m in the process of upgrading my tablesaw with a new fence so it’s somewhat related. Plus there’s no metalworking community that I could find on Lemmy.

To the point: I’ve got a piece of steel angle I want to use for the back rail on my table saw (where the end of the fence rests), buts its Swiss cheese full of holes and some holes are in awkward locations where I need to drill new holes to mount to the table saw to. Anybody dabble in welding know if I could fill in the holes with a mig welder and grind it flat? If so, any tips? I’ve got a flux core mig machine.

I bought the Delta T3 fence kit for my rigid saw because people online said “super easy to install. You only need to drill and tap a hole or two”. That turned out to be bullshit. 😅

As we didn’t find any shelf of our liking we tried to create it ourself. It worked out better than expected, however it obviously isn’t perfect. But as completely laymans we are happy nonetheless.

One cool feature is that through all pieces goes one straight hole, this allows putting lamps on the shelf without seeing any cables.

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There are also some decorations of course. And a phone holder in cherry wood (but I’m using the phone). Got a salmon push stick, and the most important thing is a lid to keep dust out of my beverages.

I want to make my own bed, and have several example pictures. Where do people find plans for their furniture?

Well, I guess it could handle stuff a good bit wider than 30cm. Mystery wood, but probably red oak. Just a rabbet on each piece, some hardboard (narrower than the print) to connect them, and commodity hanging hardware. Broke the edges with a hand plane, then a light sanding and finished with Danish Oil.

For some clarity, I did not make the speakers, but attempted to match the wood as closely as I could for the credenza.

To make the space above our massive heater a bit more useful, I hacked together this little shelf from some second hand wood that I bought from somebody in our area. It's made entirely with hand tools and held together by screws and prayers due to the funky shape of the back side of the heater.

I cut the board to the desired length with my hand saw, took off the sharp edges with a small plane and coated it with linseed oil. Then I screwed together the very hacky mounting solution, oiled it too and screwed the board on top. I am quite happy with the result, even if it's very hacky since I am not very experienced :)

Nothing too fancy and not super precise, basically cut a strip of wood to size with a hand saw and made notches for the pieces to fit together using the same hand saw and a chisel. :)